The remote location of the three adjoining
game reserves of Samburu, Buffalo Springs and Shaba make them some of
the least visited in Kenya. Being uncrowded also makes them among the
most pleasant of the parks to visit. The three parks are often treated
as one - not least by the wildlife itself. Situated in the hot and arid
north, formerly known as the Northern Frontier District, with daytime
temperatures reaching up to 40oC between January and October the land
is baked a reddish brown for most of the year.
The Samburu National reserve has as its backdrop the great table mountain
Ololokwe. Vegetation is limited to a narrow stretch of doum palms tamarind
and some woodland bordering the Ewaso Ng'iro River. Away from this is
hot dusty scrubland and acacia woodland. Termite mounds and weaver bird
nests are common Samburu sights. Some mammals are well adapted to this
desolate landscape and are rarely seen in less harsh climes. The rare
Grevy's zebra, Beisa Oryx and reticulated giraffe are among these. Crocodile
and hippo dwell in the river. The long necked gerenuk or 'giraffe necked
antelope' as it's also known, can often be seen on its hind legs seeking
food from desiccated bushes. Leopards are rarely seen, birdlife however
proliferates with large flocks of guinea fowl drinking from the riverbanks
in the afternoon. One downpour can turn the normally brown baked land
green overnight.
A daily highlight of the area's dry season is the visits to watering
holes called 'Sarara Singing Wells' by Samburu warriers. The warriors
descend into the holes which can be up to 10m deep. They then pass water
hand to hand up to the waiting cattle while chanting their traditional
Samburu songs. Buffalo Springs is linked to Samburu to the south by
a bridge crossing the Ewaso Ng'iro which was built in 1964. It shares
much of the same wildlife as Samburu but intriguingly is also home to
the common zebra not found just over the bridge on the north side of
the river. A crater in the park was created by some misjudged bombing
by an Italian pilot in the Second World War. It has since become a clear
water pool and is apparently safe to swim in.
The 3rd and largest of the 3 linked reserves is Shaba National Reserve
(246 sq km). The park is names after the sandstone Mount Shaba which
lies partially within the reserve and 5000 years ago oozed lava down
the Nyambeni Hills. With 4 springs Shaba is ironically better watered
than Buffalo Springs or Samburu. Heavy rainfall can make the tracks
only suitable for 4 wheel drive vehicles which adds to its reputation
of exclusivity for many travellers seeking a 'genuine' Kenyan experience.
Heavy poaching has made the local wildlife shy although it is still
possible to see elephant, cheetah, waterbuck and leopard as well as
the mammals which are adapted for the harsher conditions of the north
as seen in the Samburu Reserve.
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